How To Choose The Right Return Size On Bean Animal

Yellowsound

I'm getting set up to commencement a new build and trying to plan out the plumbing. The tank volition be
36" 10 18" x 20" custom made by TankmeUsa west/ their zero overflow. I have a couple questions:

-I'm thinking that one" PVC should exist adequate for the drains. Does anyone think I should go
with 1.5" drains?

-The 'default' for the tank would be two returns. I am considering just going with a unmarried render
to simplify things on the plumbing, plus there'd be one less line-loc in the in the display (cleaner
wait, no shading from the second line-loc). I volition probable run a manifold off of the render for a
carbon/GFO reactor, add'l menstruation in the centre section of the sump (which will be a mini-frag
tank), and a third for doing WCs. Does anyone recollect I need two returns in the display?

I'm certain I volition take more than questions, but this is a kickoff. Wait forwards to hearing what you all
think!

hijinks7

1 inch drain is fine if it meets your period through the sump needs.. Y'all can always go bigger since you have a gate valve to lucifer flow.

Dual40IM

I have a 200 gallon Planet Aquarium, I simply have i inch edible bean animal manner drain with the gate valve airtight more than halfway. I am running the Current U.s. Eflux return pump at lx%. The drains could handle way more than I am ever gonna need to push through them. I retrieve you should more ok.

Yellowsound

That'southward great feedback. Cheers guys!

What does everyone think nearly the return? It'll be 3/4" PVC, about a iv-5' vertical run, maybe 1/two' horizontal run, plus the manifold. Does anyone think at that place's an advantage to two return points in the display?

Dual40IM

That'south great feedback. Thanks guys!
What does everyone think nearly the return? It'll be 3/4" PVC, about a 4-five' vertical run, maybe 1/2' horizontal run, plus the manifold. Does anyone think there'south an advantage to 2 return points in the brandish?

I have no experience running merely one, so I have no real input. I think if it were me running merely ane render I would up the size to one inch. Just my opinion not saying it is right. lol, best of luck with your setup.

jacksonpt

How much flow practice you want through the system? That will determine your return pump which will determine both your drain and your return plumbing.

As for the 1 vs 2 returns... ii is more flexible, 1 is easier/more than elementary. Pros and cons to each.

Yellowsound

I probably will non try to exercise more than 5x organisation volume (approx 85 gallons westward/ sump). Even if I did, I'm guessing
that a 3/4" render should be plenty large. I had a ane/2" return on my previous system (similar, merely slightly more system
volume), and that one ran very well. But I did not run a manifold off of the return for that arrangement. Then I sized up
to iii/4" here, and I may size up my render pump, too (Sicce Syncra 2.0).

Dual40IM

I probably will non try to do more than 5x system volume (approx 85 gallons w/ sump). Even if I did, I'k guessing
that a iii/4" return should be plenty large. I had a 1/2" render on my previous system (similar, only slightly more system
volume), and that one ran very well. But I did not run a manifold off of the return for that arrangement. And so I sized up
to 3/four" here, and I may size upwards my render pump, besides (Sicce Syncra two.0).

Aye with 85 gallon total you should be proficient with a 3/4 return. I approximate I was thinking about my 200 gallon system. Every bit far as return pump goes I really like my Eflux DC return pump. Very quiet, moves alot of water and very like shooting fish in a barrel to adjust the menstruum with only a turn of the dial.

Pivitol

Personally I would do a single 3/4" return with a "y" output. You tin either continue it iii/4" all the way or go a 3/4" to 1/2" "y" to increment velocity.

Dual40IM

Personally I would do a single three/4" return with a "y" output. You lot can either keep it iii/4" all the way or get a iii/4" to one/2" "y" to increase velocity.

That's a expert idea.

DCR

If you lot really desire 5X turnover (425 gph), you should step up to 1" and a Sicce 3.0 or even a four.0. The 2.0 with iii/4" pipe is merely going to requite you most 200-300 gph when y'all consider all the caput losses.

Yellowsound

Personally I would do a unmarried 3/4" render with a "y" output. Yous tin can either continue it three/4" all the way or get a 3/4" to 1/2" "y" to increment velocity.

two questions:
How would you use the "y"? To feed 2 outputs in the DT? Or are you suggesting one of the outputs of the "y" would feed the manifold?

Also, all other things being equal (nigh importantly, turnover rate), why would increased velocity be desirable?

Yellowsound

If you really want 5X turnover (425 gph), you should step up to 1" and a Sicce iii.0 or even a iv.0. The 2.0 with 3/4" pipe is only going to requite you nearly 200-300 gph when y'all consider all the caput losses.

Information technology's true- I practice nonetheless need to plug my return pump specs into a reckoner w/ all the head loss variables to come across what which pump will be ideal. I call back 5x turnover would be the absolute maximum I would e'er want, and in reality, I will probably shoot for more than like 3x.

Yellowsound

I want to see if I tin can lure @mcarroll into the chat...

mcarroll · February 17, 2018

(36 • 18 • 20)/231 = 56 gallons

56 • four = 224 GPH

Anywhere from 100-300 GPH would exist fine in at that place.

.5" plumbing would add some other 1.7 feet of head pressure due to friction.
.75" plumbing would add only .5 feet of head pressure.
1" only .2 anxiety.

Then either of the last two options would effectively be no friction.

I assumed 6 feet of plumbing and 300 GPH, along with two elbows.

(Here's the calculator I used: http://www.freecalc.com/fric.htm)

Here's a sample gear up of results from the i" calc:

Liquid Friction Pressure Loss
Pressure Loss (psi): 0.07 Head Loss (ft): 0.2
Line Number:
Date: ii/17/2018
Nominal Pipe Size: 1
Pipage Schedule: SCH 40
Menstruation Rate (gpm): five
Viscosity (cP): 1
Specific Gravity (h2o=ane): ane.025
Temperature (F): 79
Pipe Roughness (ft): 0.000016
Actual Pipe ID (in.): i.049
Fluid Velocity (ft/sec): 1.86
Reynolds Number: 15451
Flow Region: Turbulent
Friction Factor: 0.028
Overall Yard: 2.84
Piping Length (ft): 6
Short Radius Elbows: 2

It'south hard to imagine a edible bean animal overflow being of much value on a tank this pocket-sized with flow this small.

(They were designed for large tanks what the heck HUGE flow....still not a necessity at that place, simply an understandable "precaution" when yous're going then far outside a tank's pattern spec. That's not your case AT ALL, fwiw.)

^---That'south not my typing upwardly there in parenthesis. "what the heck" has been R2R-corrected....all I typed was "with" that I typoed to the letters W-T-H.

Leaving information technology typoed and mis-corrected for posterity.

Automatic spellcheck is not a good idea on the server side as it indicates a potential lack of integrity of the info on hither.

We already account for bad words – that's more enough censoring. Due west T H doesn't need a correction unless it's from me.

Yellowsound

(36 • eighteen • 20)/231 = 56 gallons
56 • 4 = 224 GPH

Anywhere from 100-300 GPH would be fine in there.

Just this does not include the sump volume. That will be 26g... I just rounded up to 85g.

Yellowsound

Edible bean animate being: I'm sure you're right. I ran a Herbie on the tank I'thou replacing (most the aforementioned size), and that seemed fine. Considering that tank leaked, I'm scared of ANY potential source of water on the floor, and then I figured it couldn't hurt to go w/ a Bean Animal.

Yellowsound

What about two return outputs in the display vs. 1? Since I'm not depending on the return for menstruation, I'1000 having a tough fourth dimension finding the benefit of 2 render points in the DT. Splitting the render to accommodate 2 outputs would just add add'l head pressure w/o any obvious benefit.

Am I missing something?

mcarroll

Just this does not include the sump volume. That volition be 26g... I but rounded up to 85g.

I don't normally count the sump unless you're keeping fish downward there.

If you lot had a 200 gallon sump, but nonetheless the aforementioned stuff in it and the aforementioned brandish tank, would you lot spec your return pump for 256 gallons? No.

Bean animal: I'm sure you're right. I ran a Herbie on the tank I'm replacing (almost the same size), and that seemed fine. Considering that tank leaked, I'thou scared of ANY potential source of h2o on the floor, so I figured it couldn't injure to go w/ a Edible bean Creature.

Tanks seem to leak a lot more than plumbing fails. I tin can call up of several leaky tank situations I've seen/hear/read about.....merely honestly I've never heard of a drain clogging.

The hypothetical turbo snail on the drain doesn't really happen. Yes it can, but it doesn't.

Everyone uses weirs with teeth - sometimes with a mesh covering to keep out fish. Information technology works. They don't clog. Fifty-fifty when fish get down they just live in the drain box or sump until they tin exist retrieved....no clogs.

Don't design out of fearfulness. Smarts will cover it.

What about ii return outputs in the display vs. ane? Since I'm not depending on the return for catamenia, I'm having a tough time finding the benefit of two return points in the DT. Splitting the return to accommodate ii outputs would just add add together'l caput pressure level w/o any obvious benefit.
Am I missing something?

Nope.

I merely use i vertical spraybar in my l Breeder and my 39 gallon. Simply a single 1" U-tube-style overflow box on each tank also. FWIW.

(Yous're correct – if you were depending on it for flow, the answer would exist dissimilar.)

How To Choose The Right Return Size On Bean Animal

Bean Animal Drain Size & Return Size

Similar threads

0 Response to "How To Choose The Right Return Size On Bean Animal"

Post a Comment

Iklan Atas Artikel

Iklan Tengah Artikel 1

Iklan Tengah Artikel 2

Iklan Bawah Artikel